A dense mist lifted, revealing mountains and water suffused with the magic of early morning light. Framed by the carved porch of my houseboat, the world of Dal Lake looked utterly serene. Suddenly the stillness was broken by an iridescent flash descending into the water, leaving just a hint of a ripple. A small kingfisher surfaced. It flew to the side of the houseboat where it perched, a taut and tiny assembly of turquoise and orange, scrutinising the water. Then, abruptly, it darted into the la...
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